Blacklock, Soho

Blacklock, Soho ★★★★

September 2016

“Try and ask the host to slip you a bit of breast.”

When I phoned to reserve at Blacklock, Soho a few Sundays ago I half expected two things: 1) To not get a table; and 2) To have the phone answered by a lady of leisure asking “Alright Treacle, what’ll it be?”. Gratefully, neither materialised.

I’d anticipated it being fully booked because it’s received some brilliant reviews of late (not least being name No.1 in The Evening Standards list for Best Sunday Roasts in London). The lady of leisure bit because Blacklocks used to be a brothel.

Ben Norum wrote in the ES that, after an early 2015 opening, the ‘venue maintains the site’s history for serving flesh’. Nice.

I prefer the latter variety, for the roasts here are utterly awesome, and I’m not really one for prostitutes.

Obviously don’t come here on a Sunday if you’re a vegetarian, lactose intolerabalous vegan. But then: don’t go anywhere because we don’t want to hear it.

But if of sound mind then the ‘All-in’ at Blacklock is worth a journey. In fact it’s worth a trans-Midlandian Easy-Air. That’s right: I’d fly over the midlands in a budget plane for this roast. I wouldn’t: I only fly BA and I definitely don’t go near ‘there’, but you get where I’m coming from.

The ‘All-in’ is a mixed roast of beef, lamb and pork with all the trimmings. No chicken? That’s fine because you’ll come back next week and by that time you’ll be ‘a regular, sweetheart’ and you’ll try and ask the host to slip you a bit of breast. (…£20)

Too far; terribly sorry.

They don’t do no breast in here anyway, luv. Chicken’s off the menu. They do, however, make a mean Bloody Mary (£5) to woo away those Saturday night narks.

The Cauliflower Cheese (£4) is nothing to do a sexy dance about, but the culmination of crack[ing] meats, love[ly] yorkies and crispy duck-fat roasted potatoes makes for a rapturous show.

So if it’s a streetwalker you’re after; you’re too late, reading the wrong blog, and really rather filthy. Fancy a pummeling roast though, you know where to go: ‘Down the stairs and on the right, me old muffin’.

Price: £24 with sides, plus £10 on Mary – because I’d had a double-heavy night. Service.


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